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Kiandra to Kosciusko revisited. The Reader Expedition of 1954

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Kiandra to Kosciusko start

A group led by Sir Herbert Schlink in 1927 took three days to make the first crossing between Kiandra and Kosciusko. Schlink measured the distance travelled to be 75 miles (120 km).
In 1954, Paul Reader, Keith Field and Douglass Baglin attempted to replicate the trip. Through misadventure their journey took eight days and could easily have ended in tragedy.
Their story was first published in the KAC Bulletin in August, 1954, and reprinted in the Perisher Historical Society Newsletter No.19, summer 2017-18.

 

The party set out from Kiandra at 9 am on 4 July 1954 and, after some rough going arrived at their first campsite at  5.30 pm.

The photo shows (L-R): Doug Baglin, Paul Reader and Keith Field about to leave Kiandra.

Kiandra to Kosciusko start

A group led by Sir Herbert Schlink in 1927 took three days to make the first crossing between Kiandra and Kosciusko. Schlink measured the distance travelled to be 75 miles (120 km).
In 1954, Paul Reader, Keith Field and Douglass Baglin attempted to replicate the trip. Through misadventure their journey took eight days and could easily have ended in tragedy.
Their story was first published in the KAC Bulletin in August, 1954, and reprinted in the Perisher Historical Society Newsletter No.19, summer 2017-18.

 

The party set out from Kiandra at 9 am on 4 July 1954 and, after some rough going arrived at their first campsite at  5.30 pm.

The photo shows (L-R): Doug Baglin, Paul Reader and Keith Field about to leave Kiandra.

Campsite Day 1

Approach to the Day 1 campsite, on the edge of Happy Jack’s River, was by sliding down a steep (70 deg), 1000 ft scree slope in Happy Jack’s gorge. All took nasty falls and Keith and Doug lost the seats in their pants. The Day 1 campsite was a rock 6 ft by 6ft on the edge of the north shore of Happy Jack’s River.

This image was taken from the southern bank of Happy Jack’s River facing north (right of photo). The steepness of the northern bank is obvious. At the bottom of this bank was their campsite on Day 1. 

Campsite Day 1

Approach to the Day 1 campsite, on the edge of Happy Jack’s River, was by sliding down a steep (70 deg), 1000 ft scree slope in Happy Jack’s gorge. All took nasty falls and Keith and Doug lost the seats in their pants. The Day 1 campsite was a rock 6 ft by 6ft on the edge of the north shore of Happy Jack’s River.

This image was taken from the southern bank of Happy Jack’s River facing north (right of photo). The steepness of the northern bank is obvious. At the bottom of this bank was their campsite on Day 1. 

Crossing Happy Jack's River and Day 2 campsite

July 5   At 9.30 am they began crossing the river and at 9.45 am it began to snow and the temperature was -2ºC. The river was flowing very fast and they decided to remove their clothes and put them in their backpacks to keep them dry and float the packs across the river. Floating one bag across at a time, the crossing took 3.5 hr and was very treacherous. At the first attempt Doug and Paul, with a pack strapped between them, were swept off their feet and Doug was carried 100 m downstream before he could scramble out. Paul had been able to keep hold of the pack which was fortunate as it contained most of the food and fire equipment. However, none of the clothes remained dry.  The rest of the day was taken up by establishing a campsite on the edge of the south shore of the river. As their clothes were wet they spent a very cold night.

Crossing Happy Jack's River and Day 2 campsite

July 5   At 9.30 am they began crossing the river and at 9.45 am it began to snow and the temperature was -2ºC. The river was flowing very fast and they decided to remove their clothes and put them in their backpacks to keep them dry and float the packs across the river. Floating one bag across at a time, the crossing took 3.5 hr and was very treacherous. At the first attempt Doug and Paul, with a pack strapped between them, were swept off their feet and Doug was carried 100 m downstream before he could scramble out. Paul had been able to keep hold of the pack which was fortunate as it contained most of the food and fire equipment. However, none of the clothes remained dry.  The rest of the day was taken up by establishing a campsite on the edge of the south shore of the river. As their clothes were wet they spent a very cold night.

Campsite Day 2

Across at last. This photo shows Paul Reader (left) and Keith Field on the southern bank of Happy Jacks River. It was near this point that Day 2 campsite (5 July) was erected.

Campsite Day 2

Across at last. This photo shows Paul Reader (left) and Keith Field on the southern bank of Happy Jacks River. It was near this point that Day 2 campsite (5 July) was erected.

Campsite Day 2 , 6 July

July 6.  Emerging from their tent the view was breathtaking. The photo shows Doug Baglin (left) and Keith Field at the Day 2 campsite. The ground was covered in 45 cm powder snow. This beautiful vision was followed by a very steep, frustrating climb up a pyramid-like mountain, a fall from which would produce a long plunge down the face. This mountain was unusual in that it was connected to a much higher mountain by a very narrow ‘fishback’  ridge with a drop of 250 m on either side. The ridge was so narrow that Keith decided to sit astride it and pass it between his legs.

Camp for the night was a tent pitched over the top of a foxhole  between two big rocks. The camp was at such an angle that a trip would have caused a fall of several hundred metres down the slope. The tent had so little room that they had to take hour long turns at sleeping. One would get into the foxhole and attempt to sleep, another would stoke the fire and the third would sit outside the tent in the falling snow. They were so exhausted that they even managed some sleep during the night.

 

Campsite Day 2 , 6 July

July 6.  Emerging from their tent the view was breathtaking. The photo shows Doug Baglin (left) and Keith Field at the Day 2 campsite. The ground was covered in 45 cm powder snow. This beautiful vision was followed by a very steep, frustrating climb up a pyramid-like mountain, a fall from which would produce a long plunge down the face. This mountain was unusual in that it was connected to a much higher mountain by a very narrow ‘fishback’  ridge with a drop of 250 m on either side. The ridge was so narrow that Keith decided to sit astride it and pass it between his legs.

Camp for the night was a tent pitched over the top of a foxhole  between two big rocks. The camp was at such an angle that a trip would have caused a fall of several hundred metres down the slope. The tent had so little room that they had to take hour long turns at sleeping. One would get into the foxhole and attempt to sleep, another would stoke the fire and the third would sit outside the tent in the falling snow. They were so exhausted that they even managed some sleep during the night.

 

Day 3, 7 July

July 7.  After a quick breakfast they recommenced climbing but the trees on the side of the mountain were so laden with snow that a slight brush was sufficient to cover them in snow. By 3 pm they had reached the top and were in a forest of tall trees and by 4 pm had chosen their campsite.

The photo shows Keith Field (left) and Paul Reader feeling very tired after climbing out of Happy Jack’s River gorge.

Day 3, 7 July

July 7.  After a quick breakfast they recommenced climbing but the trees on the side of the mountain were so laden with snow that a slight brush was sufficient to cover them in snow. By 3 pm they had reached the top and were in a forest of tall trees and by 4 pm had chosen their campsite.

The photo shows Keith Field (left) and Paul Reader feeling very tired after climbing out of Happy Jack’s River gorge.

Sloppy snow, Days 4-5

July 8.  was a beautiful, cloudless, sunny day but progress was very slow as the snow was wet, heavy slush which clung to the climbing skins. In addition the undergrowth kept coming to the surface and catching their bindings.

At this point the travellers were extremely tired which Paul put down to 4 factors (1) the surrounding mountains were unfamiliar (2) Due to the storm they had been unable to see further than 400 m for three days (3) Due to so many changes in course they had been forced to ignore the compass on many occasions (4) The shape of Happy Jack’s River at the point of crossing was so unusual geographically that it should have shown up clearly on the map, thus allowing them to pinpoint their position, but it did not.

That night they camped on a plateau and started a little fire on the surface of the snow, initially about 18 inches in circumference. By morning the fire was resting on the ground 3ft lower down and had melted a circle 26 ft in circumference. They were able to sit with backs against the wall of snow and their feet stretched out towards the fire.

July 9.  was another beautiful day and they made very good progress. The campsite was in a clump of trees and a hearty dinner was followed by a good sleep.

Sloppy snow, Days 4-5

July 8.  was a beautiful, cloudless, sunny day but progress was very slow as the snow was wet, heavy slush which clung to the climbing skins. In addition the undergrowth kept coming to the surface and catching their bindings.

At this point the travellers were extremely tired which Paul put down to 4 factors (1) the surrounding mountains were unfamiliar (2) Due to the storm they had been unable to see further than 400 m for three days (3) Due to so many changes in course they had been forced to ignore the compass on many occasions (4) The shape of Happy Jack’s River at the point of crossing was so unusual geographically that it should have shown up clearly on the map, thus allowing them to pinpoint their position, but it did not.

That night they camped on a plateau and started a little fire on the surface of the snow, initially about 18 inches in circumference. By morning the fire was resting on the ground 3ft lower down and had melted a circle 26 ft in circumference. They were able to sit with backs against the wall of snow and their feet stretched out towards the fire.

July 9.  was another beautiful day and they made very good progress. The campsite was in a clump of trees and a hearty dinner was followed by a good sleep.

Mt Jagungal

July 10  They made very good progress and, in the evening, they were able to sleep on the western slope of Mt Jagungal. While cutting wood for the fire they were treated to a triple colour change of the mountain starting pink and then changing from blue to yellow. They were now halfway to Kosciusko with the worst part over.

The photo shows Paul Reader and Keith Field on the western slopes of Mt Jagungal. On the horizon is Mt Tate (left), Mt Twynam, Twynam West Ridge and Watson”s Crags.

Mt Jagungal

July 10  They made very good progress and, in the evening, they were able to sleep on the western slope of Mt Jagungal. While cutting wood for the fire they were treated to a triple colour change of the mountain starting pink and then changing from blue to yellow. They were now halfway to Kosciusko with the worst part over.

The photo shows Paul Reader and Keith Field on the western slopes of Mt Jagungal. On the horizon is Mt Tate (left), Mt Twynam, Twynam West Ridge and Watson”s Crags.

Lost near Alpine Hut, Kidman's Hut, Tin Hut

July 11  was another perfect day and by 10.30 am they had climbed over the top of Mt  Jagungal and were skiing down the eastern slopes.

From Mt Jagungal they set a compass course for Alpine Hut but did not allow for 10 degrees of magnetic declination and got lost. They eventually found a hut which they thought was Kidman’s, which lies to the north of Alpine, but later proved to be Tin Hut. Snow was up to the roof of the hut so they had to dig themselves in hoping to find some food as they only had powdered milk left. There was only tea and sugar in the hut but, at least, they were comfortable for the night.

Lost near Alpine Hut, Kidman's Hut, Tin Hut

July 11  was another perfect day and by 10.30 am they had climbed over the top of Mt  Jagungal and were skiing down the eastern slopes.

From Mt Jagungal they set a compass course for Alpine Hut but did not allow for 10 degrees of magnetic declination and got lost. They eventually found a hut which they thought was Kidman’s, which lies to the north of Alpine, but later proved to be Tin Hut. Snow was up to the roof of the hut so they had to dig themselves in hoping to find some food as they only had powdered milk left. There was only tea and sugar in the hut but, at least, they were comfortable for the night.

Tin Hut, Dicky Cooper Hut, Guthega and the Chalet

July 12.  Believing they were in Kidman’s Hut, they set a compass course for Alpine Hut and wasted hours trying to find it only to happen upon Dicky Cooper Hut. Not knowing their location, they were lucky to see the radio mast at White’s River Hut which fixed their position.

As they had only a little powdered milk left, they decided to press on but were soon enveloped in thick fog passing over the Rolling Grounds with visibility restricted to two metres.. Climbing Consett Stephen Pass the fog lifted and soon they could see the light of the Selmer Engineering Camp at Guthega. In their weakened condition, they decided to stop at Guthega rather than pushing on to the Chalet at Charlotte Pass.

The Selmer workers at Guthega gave them a wonderful reception taking care of all their food and medical needs and providing excellent accommodation for the night.

The following day the Selmer staff took them to Smiggin Holes where Johnny Abbottsmith provided Oversnow transport to the Chalet.

The photo shows digging in to Tin Hut.

Tin Hut, Dicky Cooper Hut, Guthega and the Chalet

July 12.  Believing they were in Kidman’s Hut, they set a compass course for Alpine Hut and wasted hours trying to find it only to happen upon Dicky Cooper Hut. Not knowing their location, they were lucky to see the radio mast at White’s River Hut which fixed their position.

As they had only a little powdered milk left, they decided to press on but were soon enveloped in thick fog passing over the Rolling Grounds with visibility restricted to two metres.. Climbing Consett Stephen Pass the fog lifted and soon they could see the light of the Selmer Engineering Camp at Guthega. In their weakened condition, they decided to stop at Guthega rather than pushing on to the Chalet at Charlotte Pass.

The Selmer workers at Guthega gave them a wonderful reception taking care of all their food and medical needs and providing excellent accommodation for the night.

The following day the Selmer staff took them to Smiggin Holes where Johnny Abbottsmith provided Oversnow transport to the Chalet.

The photo shows digging in to Tin Hut.